Stepping out of your hotel, blinking in the sunlight, you leave the security of the hotel grounds and step out onto the public street. As likely as not, you’ll be hit by a stream of water from a high-powered squirt gun, or a bucket of water thrown from a passing pickup truck will drench you from head to foot in an instant.

Doesn’t sound like much fun, does it? It can be. While it may at first seem an offensive intrusion on your person, once you grasp the fact that this is a free-for-all and you too can dump and spray water on anyone you choose, giving your inner child the free rein it never gets back home, impish notions begin to hatch. Besides, April is roasting hot, so it’s a way for everyone to beat the heat.

For about five days beginning every April 13, the whole of Thailand explodes into a frenzied water fight, with everyone from toddlers to overgrown kids joining in the fun. The serious water warriors invest in purpose-made plastic cannons that could be used as fire fighting equipment; pickup trucks with huge water tanks and a load of screeching revelers on the back cruise the streets, strangers smear each others’ faces with baby powder.

Mind you, it wasn’t always quite so intense. The ritual of water splashing was until relatively recently much more gentle, involving pouring water over the hands, or occasionally down the back of the neck.

The whole concept likely originated before the foundation of Siam itself (Laos and Cambodia celebrate it too), as a cleansing and fertility ritual coinciding with the full moon and the rice harvest. It probably arrived when the Tai people moved down from China into present-day ThailandGiven that this year is 2544 (the same count as the Chinese), it would appear they’ve been at it for quite some time.

Aside from the water splashing, most people go to the temple to “make merit”, presenting offerings in the hopes of getting good luck in the coming year. Another of the big traditional features of Songkran still practiced today (particularly in Thailand’s north) is paying respect to the elders of the family. A representative of the youth fronts a gathering of the young 'uns and asks grandpa and grandma to forgive their misbehaviour and improper attitude during the previous year, and pour water over the old peoples’ hands. This duty completed, they then head for the streets and get a head start on next year’s misdemeanors, wildly throwing buckets of water at all and sundry.

There are those who lament the overshadowing of the serious aspect of the festival, believing it has degenerated into a sado-masochistic liquid orgy. Sure, they have a point, but all but the most hardened old grump has to admit that it is a lot of fun – for the first day or two anyway. Besides, time marches on, everything changes, and you can either hide indoors for a week or put on your least favourite clothes, arm yourself with water weaponry, get out there, and give as good a soaking as you get.

Where it’s Happening

Songkran is celebrated in every corner of the country, but there are a few places where they go all out.

Bangkok pretty much empties out (it’s the only time of year there are no traffic jams) as people head for their home villages or holiday resorts. Still the backpacker haven of Khaosan Road and several blocks surrounding it are full to the gunnels with revelers from all over the world who turn the place into a water war zone. It is very full on here, lasting for five or six days and is only recommended for the most intrepid.

Chiang Mai is considered the main torch bearer of the festival, both in traditional celebrations and the enthusiasm of the splashing. Several events accompany the celebrations, including a parade, a Miss Songkran contest and merit making at the temples. The city fills right up, so book your hotel room early.

The old Siamese capital of Sukothai also takes the traditions pretty seriously, maintaining the historical dimension of the festivities.

Islands and beach resorts also fill up and aside from a couple of days the water throwing tends to be a bit more subdued.

A Matter of Manners

As we’ve said, it is generally a free for all, but there are a few do’s and don’ts for enjoying Songkran in Thailand:

1. Age Before Beauty: Mostly, older people stay indoors during Thai new year, not wishing to go out and catch pneumonia. Don’t throw water on the elderly – they’ve earned the right to pass unscathed. Thais have a great respect for those who have put in their years and it would be disrespectful to douse Grandma on her way to the temple.

2. Splash but Don’t Touch: You can throw water on any non-geriatric you wish, but don’t touch anyone above the hairline or below the neck – especially the opposite sex. You can smear talcum powder on a stranger’s face, but approach in a way that gives them the opportunity to give their consent. Even then, be careful not to touch the head – this is considered extremely bad manners in Thailand.

3. Don’t Get Carried Away: Even if you’ve had a few drinks and get caught up in the frenzy and see someone else do it, don’t ever throw water at someone in control of a vehicle.