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The leisurely cruise down the river form Huai Say (Laos-Thailand border) to Luang Say lodge near the small town of Pakbeng in Lao take about 7 hours while the second leg of the journey from Pakbeng to the ancient and exquisite city of Luang Prabang takes another 7 hours or so. En route, the river winds its turbulent way passing jungles, jagged rocks, mountains, teak plantations and farmland.
Known locally as “The mother of waters’, the river is the artery of life in Laos: a trading route, a source of food and water, and a social centre for the settlements along its route.
The Mekong has its source in the icy wastes of the eastern Tibetan plateau. It flows south and east, through China, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam, emptying into the South China Sea through a wide delta south of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). The Mekong is of immense significance as a natural boundary. Its unpredictable waters and shifting bed make fording or bridging almost impossible. From the bottom of the river jagged rocks as sharp as teeth extend to and above the surface of the river, making navigation dangerous.
This great river has seen the rise and fall of empires and battles between foes of different races and cultures. Explorers, traders and simple fishermen and farmers have used the Mekong River for thousands of years. In recent times, peace has returned and the ordinary life of the river goes on as it always has.
Huai Say is a small and sleepy town, which was formerly of some importance as a trading depot for goods passing from China to Siam (Thailand). It is now the capital of the small Laotian province of Bokeo. Huai Say has a thriving market and several new guesthouses and small hotels to cater to the recent influx of tourists to the region. On a hill overlooking the river is a French fortress, built in 1939 at the beginning of World War 2.
The fish are caught just south of Huai Say and Chiang Khong, the small town on the Thai side of the river. There is great rivalry between Thai and Laotian fishermen over who will catch the best fish. Since the choicest fishing spots are Laotian sand banks, the Laos usually win. If your journey is at the right time of year, you can watch the fishermen in action and catch a glimpse of one of these monsters of the watery depths. As you cruise down to Pakbeng, watch out for bamboo poles suspended from the rocks and buoys marking fish traps and nets.
Established in the 14th Century, Luang Prabang sits majestically on the banks of the Mekong River. This charming and much sought-after city was declared a world heritage site by UNESCO in 1995 and is considered one of Asia's best preserved ancient capitals. To wander its quiet, timeless lanes is to enter a living museum of life, architecture and serenity.
A kilometer upstream, on the left bank of the river, is Luang Say Lodge with the backdrop of forested mountains. The 16 large pavilions of solid wood all have balconies looking out onto the Mekong River and the mountains beyond. The traditional Laotian architecture provides accommodation of comfort and character, each pavilion equipped with a large private bathroom with hot shower and toilet. A central riverbank restaurant is reached by wooden walk - ways from the pavilions. Here you will enjoy fine food and choice of drinks from the well stocked bar, and the most attentive service.
· Modern safety equipment and lifejackets
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Your journey through this remote and exotic land is on board one of the Luang Say boats, a 34 metre long Mekong river barges appointed with everything for comfort, safety and enjoyment, with ample open air seating, a bar, toilet facilities and galley. The perfect way to relax and enjoy a unique and romantic voyage to the land untouched by the modern world.
Thai people fled across the Mekong from south China to establish the kingdom of Siam, now Thailand, 700 years ago. The same ethnic group settled in Laos somewhat earlier and became the ancestors of the present Laotians. The language and culture of the Thais and the Laos are very similar. Historically, the Mekong protected Siam from invasions from the east. However, the kingdom of Laos, without this natural protection, fell under the control of various East Asian civilizations, such as the ancient empires of Champa, Chenla, Funan, the Khmers of Cambodia, and the Vietnamese. Later in the colonial days of French colonization, the Mekhong marked the western edge of the French empire of Indo-China; with Siam (Thailand) preserving its own independence as a buffer zone between the British, in Burma, and the French to the east. You will see the artistic and architectural legacy of some of these cultures on your cruise.
The waters of the Mekong itself belong to Laos. During the dry season, from November to May, many sand banks and rocks appear above the water line as the level of the river falls. There is an 8 metre vertical difference between the highest and lowest levels of the river. All the exposed land belongs to Laos, which is quite important during the giant catfish catching season, in late April and May. These fish are the largest freshwater fish in the world, up to 3 metres long and weighing a massive 300 kilograms. They live in deep holes in the bottom of the river, so can only be netted when the river is at it’s lowest. Their meat is sold for upwards of $10 a kilo; so one fish brings instant wealth to its owner.
A cluster of boats and a small jetty surround the town of Pakbeng. The town has a small early morning market for local villages, but is mainly dependent on river traffic for its existence. Its 200 houses cling to the steep valley sloping to the harbour.
The safety and comfort of the Luang Say boats are truly the envy of all other river travellers in the region as they provide the perfect setting for leisurely river travel. With 34 metre steel hulls, they feature:
