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Features| Cruising the Mekong River
Vat Phou
Cruising the Mekong River
Vat Phou
Luang Say Lodge  
Feature's photo
Vat Phou Boat
Photo by Teera, story with courtesy of Asiavoyages

At 4,180 kilometers long, Mekhong River is the 10th longest river in the world. Your cruise 170 kilometres south to the Cambodian border will take you to places of great beauty and of immense historical significance.

The Mekong has its source in the icy wastes of the eastern Tibetan plateau. It flows south and east, through China, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam, emptying into the South China Sea through a wide delta south of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).

Thai people fled across the Mekong from south China to establish the kingdom of Siam, now Thailand, 700 years ago. The same ethnic group settled in Laos somewhat earlier and became the ancestors of the present Laotians. The language and culture of the Thais and the Laos are very similar. Historically, the Mekong protected Siam from invasions from the east. However, the kingdom of Laos, without this natural protection, fell under the control of various East Asian civilizations, such as the ancient empires of Champa, Chenla, Funan, the Khmers of Cambodia, and the Vietnamese. Later in the colonial days of French colonization, the Mekhong marked the western edge of the French empire of Indo-China; with Siam (Thailand) preserving its own independence as a buffer zone between the British, in Burma, and the French to the east. You will see the artistic and architectural legacy of some of these cultures on your cruise.

This great river has seen the rise and fall of empires and battles between foes of different races and cultures. Explorers, traders and simple fishermen and farmers have used the Mekong River for thousands of years. In recent times, peace has returned and the ordinary life of the river goes on as it always has.


Vat Phou Boat

The Vat Phou is a floating hotel, in which you can relax in comfort as you enjoy the ever-changing pageant of river scenery and life as you pass by. The boat has ten comfortable cabins, each with twin beds and an en-suite bathroom with hot showers. All cabins and the lower deck restaurant are air-conditioned. The open, shaded upper deck is equipped with rattan armchairs, sofas, coffee tables and loungers for absolute comfort. The galley produces the finest of Laotian, Vietnamese and Thai dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully presented. The crew is on hand at all times to provide you with the finest service. Coffee, tea and water are provided free of charge, and there is also a selection of beers, wines, spirits and soft drinks.

The Vat Phou is 33 metres long and 7.5 metres wide, originally built to ferry teak between Vientiane and the south. It is powered by 260 horsepower Isuzu diesel engines. The boat was converted in 1993 it retained a character that is unmistakably oriental.


Vat Phou – Khmer temple of sacrifice

The former capital of Chenla Empire about 1,400 years ago, Champasak is a great civilization stretching south into Cambodia, north and west into northern Thailand and as far as Burma. Presently, there is no sight of the past glory in town since the city was built of wood. Perhaps, the only remnants of this ancient empire are Vat Phou, which lies 4 kilometers away from the city.

Vat Phou is a Hindu temple set at the foot of a curiously shaped 1,416-metre mountain with a flat narrow peak and steep, forested sides. The temple is laid out on an east-facing axis. A paved causeway leads 1.5 kilometers from the ancient reservoirs at its base. The path has three steeply stepped staircases, with terraces at the top of each. Lined with stone pillars and Frangipani trees at the top is an upper sanctuary, the most holy sanctum of the temple. On the summit of the hill is a 15 metre high monolith, the main reason for the site of the temple. The stone is perceived as a natural ‘lingam’ – the symbol of the Hindu god Shiva – a phallic symbol. The temple area used to contain many smaller, carved linga, now mostly removed. Carved representations of the female sex organs, called yoni, can also be found. It was built several hundred years before the great Khmer temples of Angkor Vat. The Khmers, however, rebuilt and improved the buildings, so most of the buildings seen were built between the 11th and 12th century.

Said the French archaeologist Louis Finot “I do not know that the Cambodian architects have ever shown more taste in the choice of a site, more art in the arrangement, more cleverness in combining the accidents of the terrain and the disposition of its edifices, in the manner of producing a seizing impression of nobleness and majesty.”

At the beginning of the causeway there are 2 ‘palaces’, which their function is unknown. With dark passages surrounding a large open space, they may have been forums. The northern one is built of sandstone, the southern of laterite with sandstone lintels. There are intricate and beautiful carvings on these lintels, depicting scenes from Hindu mythology.

On each of the terraces are the remains of ancient palaces, and a library. At the top is the sanctuary, a small building now containing recent Buddha images, surrounded by carvings of Hindu origin. Many of the lintels are intricately carved, showing similar scenes to the lower ‘palace’, but even more exquisite.

Behind the sanctuary to the south is the sacred spring, which flows over an overhanging rock face. To the north, at the foot of a small staircase, is a large stone with the deeply carved outline of a crocodile. The dimensions are human, and this is almost certainly the sacrificial stone described by Chinese historians in the 6th century. They speak of the annual sacrifice of a human by the king of Chenla. The carved channel for the flow of blood supports this gruesome claim.

Nearby is a large carving of the three main Hindu gods of Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu. It is significant that Vishnu, the protector, and Rama, the creator, are bowing down before Shiva, the destroyer.


About Vat Phou Boat

A 34-metre steel hulled craft converted into a floating hotel, the Vat Phou was launched with the support of the World Bank in Vientiane in 1993. Each of the 12 comfortable and elegant air-conditioned cabins offers two single berths and a private western style bathroom.

Charmingly appointed, it also offers:

· Modern safety equipment and lifejackets
· A large front deck with a wide open area for relaxation.
· A lower deck with an air-conditioned dining room.
· A set menu combining both Laotian and Continental cuisine.
· French, English and Thai speaking staff.
· A fully-stocked bar


Cruise the Mekong River on Vat Phou route

Vat PhouLuang Say Lodge
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