As this traditionally reclusive country opens up to the outside world, it is becoming easier and more popular for visitors to explore its many mysteries.

Many travelers start at Beijing, but if to explore China from its roots upward, Shaanxi is the ideal beginning. Shaanxi Province, in the northern central region, is the cradle of Chinese civilization. It was here that the first Chinese monarchy was established in 220 BC, and also the location of the Great Wall. For over a thousand years, Shaanxi served as the country’s political, religious and trade center. “Thirteen dynasties out of 21 had their capitals around Shaanxi’s capital Xian,” said Song Peng, (or Nick, as he is called in English) my young multilingual guide. "That’s why most of China’s most important history took place in Shaanxi."

His statement was confirmed later the next morning when he took me to the museum of the Yellow Emperor, the site the terracotta warriors. The museum features 7,000 figures and artifacts found at the tomb of China’s first emperor, Qin Shinhuang, who unified China and founded the first Chinese dynasty 2200 years ago. He also commissioned the 3,000-kilometer Great Wall, laid the foundation of the imperial government, enforced a writing standard, a legal code, plus uniform currency, weights and measures. A great believer in life after death, his tomb is a testament of China’s power and civilization in Asia and the most crucial modern discovery in Chinese history and archeology.

The museum sits on Emperor Qin’s mausoleum, covering an area of about 200,000 square meters, with pits filled with thousands of terracotta figures – a complete army of war chariots, cavalry, archers, infantry and horses. The incredible thing about these figures is that each one is unique, with different facial features, positions, military ranks, clothes and ethnicity – all rendered with great precision.

Since its accidental discovery by local peasants in 1974 (narrowly avoiding certain destruction during the Cultural Revolution), the site has been extensively excavated. “This is just one of 72 emperors’ tombs found in Shaanxi. You might find more if you dig up the land anywhere in Xian,” says Nick. There are several other smaller mausoleums surrounding Xian that also contain valuable artifacts that open vast windows on China’s history.  

The myth of an ancient city

Since Xian is an ancient capital it is easy to imagine a place filled with tiered roof temples and traditional brick houses. But with over 3.5 million people, modern Xian is a busy metropolis where high-rise buildings, trendy boutiques and malls line wide streets. The only remaining major ancient structure is the city wall. This 14^th-century fortification was rebuilt and extended during the Ming Dynasty, and stands 40 feet high and 8 miles long, with 4 city gates, watchtowers, 98 ramparts and a deep moat. It encloses much of Xian’s city center and is the largest and best-preserved city wall in China. It is the perfect place to observe the city – you can even ride a bicycle on it.

Aside from the inexpensive taxis, a good way to explore Xian City is on foot. My city exploration centered on the Bell Tower, an ancient city landmark near the southern gate. The area comprises upscale department stores, hotels, Chinese and fast food restaurants and chic cafés. At night, the avenues around the tower bustle with city dwellers coming out for late night shopping and food.

To unravel the city chronologically, Nick took me to the Shaanxi History Museum, a 7^th century Tang Dynasty building in southern Xian. The museum has more than 300,000 pieces, including glazed pottery figures, bronze wares, tomb frescoes, gold and silver utensils. One intriguing display is of the world’s first paper, displayed in picture frames, and among the earliest examples of one Chinese invention that revolutionized the world. There are also displays of the evolution of Chinese calligraphy and Lantian man – a 1 million-year-old human fossil found in Shaanxi.

The evolution of faith

While the modernity of downtown Xian expresses the city’s attempt to catch up with the world, many ancient structures near the city are an expression of ancient faith. One of several surrounding Xian, Famen Temple, built in 147 BC, is among China’s most sacred Buddhist monasteries. Located in a sleepy town about two hours west of the city, this temple was continuously populated by 3000 monks during the Tang Dynasty from 618 – 907 AD, the most prosperous and influential period of Chinese history. A popular attraction for Chinese tourists is the finger bones of the Lord Buddha.

Buddhism has taken many forms over its 1,500 years in China. The most crucial transformation occurred in the late 7^th century when master Xuanzang returned to Xian from a long journey to India. Xuanzang was the first Chinese monk to travel through Siberia and Russia to study Buddhism in India in 629 AD. The fruit of his 17-year pilgrimmage is the Sanskrit to Chinese translation of 1,335 chapters of Buddhist scripture, leading to the foundation of Faxiang sect. The travelogue of his journey is also a classic of Chinese literature

The front gate of Ci’en Temple was crowded with several groups of Chinese and French tourists. Behind the temple gate is a 7-storey brick pagoda, built in the reign of Emperor Xuanzong when master Xuanzang headed the temple -- residing here for 17 years while producing his translation.

As Nick explained the temple’s Feng Shui (the Chinese geomancy of landscaping), I noticed groups of foreign tourists listening attentively to the their guides. These visitors, the vanguard of many more to come, mark a new phase in China’s history, scratching the now-accessible surface of this incredibly rich culture. China has taught the world so much already, and so much more remains to be learned.