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Phrae

This untouristed northern city of wooden houses and handicrafts is a great place to relax and take in old-style Thailand.

Preserved in Wood
The city of Phrae, in Phrae Province southeast of Chiang Mai is one of Thailand’s lesser-known tourist destinations and so has retained its original charm and traditional lifestyle. A walk through the lanes of the old city reveals row upon row of old teak houses displaying elegant carvings, and Northern-style temples, along with a smattering of Burmese and Lao temples.

Back to Roots
The economy of the province was built largely on harvesting teakwood and turning it into houses and carvings. Unfortunately, teak tree felling outstripped new growth, prompting an official ban on logging since 1989. Now the local craftsmen must rely on recycled timber from dismantled houses or the occasional specially licensed tree, to fashion beautiful furniture and carvings. Sadly, houses can no longer be built from teak, but one benefit of this is that you can visit the extensive, preserved teak forests of the province.

Rocket Festival
In May, Phrae Province hosts a rocket festival, firing homemade rockets incredible distances over the rice fields. Traditionally, the farmers hope this will bring healthy rains and a plentiful harvest. It seems to work – the rains come every year! The seriousness of this ritual hasn't stopped the people of Phrae from having a good time at this festival, however. Today, there are competitions between the rocket makers for beauty and distance, plus musicians, traditional dancing, and plenty of homemade whisky to ensure that everyone has a fun week. This is a great opportunity to see northern Thai people at play – something they are very good at.

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