Former Capital
Phitsanulok is a good a starting point for exploring Thailand’s lower north. Having spent a few decades as the country’s capital in the 15th century, it is now a busy city with plenty to see and do. Eating is an experience here, as there are hundreds of restaurants and food vendors: try those on the Nan River for waterside dinners.
Buddha Images
Phra Phutta Chinnarat, one of Thailand’s most graceful and sacred Buddha images, sits in the 14th C Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat (Wat Yai); an aura of gold flames adorning the head of the effigy makes it unique. (Please dress respectfully to visit this temple.) Not far away, Wat Chulamani is a ruined but serene Khmer-style temple. To watch bronze Buddha images being made, visit the Buddha Casting Foundry on Wisut Kasat Road for a demonstration. The owner also founded the nearby Folk Museum, with its interesting collection of traditional artifacts.
Scenic Parkland
Also in Phitsanulok Province, Phu Hin Rong Kla National Park was (in the 1970s) the main stronghold of the now defunct communist People’s Liberation Army of Thailand. Their derelict headquarters remain, but now only hikers enjoy the park’s trails and scenery, including waterfalls and unusual rock formations. Bungalows and tents are available from the Forestry Department. At Thung Salaeng Luang Wildlife Sanctuary, you will need your own transport to take several roads up the steep slopes of Khao Kaw, also a former communist hideout. Battlements and watchtowers still stand at the top, along with a memorial honoring Thai troops killed during the insurrection. The view from the top is well worth the climb.