How Much is That Gemstone in the Window?
If you are thinking of buying gems, whether loose or in jewellery, it is crucial to bear in mind that gems have no inherent value. They are only expensive because of the laws of supply and demand – a demand that goes back to prehistoric times when they were seen as magical crystals with the ability to make one a better warrior, more resistant to alcohol, or to cure disease.
Take your time. Shop around and don’t hesitate to walk out if you feel in doubt – there are plenty more shops. If your instincts tell you something is wrong, believe them.
In the Shop
Visit reputable shops on main roads. Lighting is very important – it should be white and bright. Sunlight is ideal and some dealers will even take you outside to view the stone.
A quality gem should naturally show off its beauty. You shouldn’t have to hold it up to the light at a special angle to see the colour. If it is a clear stone and properly cut, the facets should reflect the light from inside, making it glitter. If you don’t see this effect, what is the point of buying it?
However, you should still hold it up to the light and look through it with a magnifying loupe or even through a microscope. Look for “inclusions”, which are little bits of foreign material; “flaws”, which take the form of cracks or bubbles; and “zoning”, or internal variations in colour. Generally, the fewer of these there are, the more costly the stone should be. If you see none of the above, then you should beware – genuine perfect stones are very rare and carry a huge price tag.
Synthetics
Synthetics are not “fakes” as such. They are chemically identical to natural stones, but created cheaply in labs. Sapphires and rubies (both made of corundum but different colours), have been synthesised since the early 1900s, and are getting harder to detect – many now even have artificial inclusions! However, a good rule of thumb is to look under magnification for regular “zoning” – even bands of colour, which are very rare in a natural stone.
Heat Treating
About 98% of all rubies and sapphires have been heat treated to permanently enhance their colour. It has been a standard (though infrequently admitted) practice for centuries. If you are looking at a ruby or sapphire in a shop, ask the salesperson if it has been treated. If they say their stones aren’t heated, they are probably lying to you. Go to another shop.
Your Place or Mine?
If you do visit a mine, don’t be fooled into thinking that the stones on sale originate from there or are even natural. It’s an old joke among gem dealers that the closer you get to the mines, the more diligent you have to be for synthetics. The conmen have been playing this game for centuries.
For Love, Not Money
Unless you have years of gemological training behind you, never buy a gem as a financial investment. Buy it as a gift of love (for someone else or even yourself!) Buy it for the joy of wearing a beautiful and unique rarity created by the hand of nature -- something that was here long before you that will still be here long after, passed down and prized by future generations. That personal contact with immortal beauty is really what gems are all about.
